Thanks Johnny. I can only push 5 psi as the alternator isn't holding volts. Need an auto electrician to have a look before I can go back and get her tuned for more boostage. I'm in no hurry tho. It's just so damn good to be able to drive her again....
Get this tho, when I got in to reverse the car, I got a cramp in my left leg! Talk about an all time pussy effort. First time back and I fold like bitch! Then I stalled her. :d oh: Finally got my shit together and drove her round the block. I was all giddy.
What does that mean? Either it's working and charging your battery (should be providing ~13.5V if I remember correctly) or it's not working and your getting 12V or less when the car is running.
You have a voltmeter? It's easy to check. Swapping an alternator on the car isn't hard either.
The battery is fine, as long as the boost stays low. I will speak to an auto electrician, and he can tell me if my alt is cactus, or if wiring is a problem.
so the rumours I've been hearing in the 2 and a half years I've been on 3SI are true...Dr. Delicious...aka roo-fu...well, you know,
aka Scotty...aka GTO Assassin does, indeed OWN A GTO
That is one sexy white first gen you have there scotty. Sexy White First Gen's FTW.
Anyway its not really the voltage that matters, at least not entirely. I have had plenty of cars with alternators that push out 12 - 14v. Problem is they werent putting out enough amps to keep up with the electrical system and charge the battery. If you have a 75amp alternator that is only pushing out 40amps, drive the car short distances with lots of electrical items on then you can bet your ass you will end up with a dead battery. Now a bad alternator can cause charging issues in you battery and cause a dead cell. With a car that has sat 2+ years I would make sure you have a brand new battery in it and then test the charging system. Call a few parts places and see if they test the charging system, make sure they test the AMP's or even WATT's of the system. Here in the US most parts places will do this for free as its good business practice. Make sure they can tell you the output and dont just have a system that says 'Good' or 'Bad" as there is no real distinction in variances for parts. Good can be 40amps on a 75amp system, for a Pinto thats fine but on a car like the 3000 with more electrical systems than the space ship.... well 40 isnt going to work.
[quote=""Shawn96VR-4""]The battery is fine as long as the boost stays low?[/quote]
That's what makes no sense to me. It shoudl not matter what boost you're running at. It COULD be RPM dependent if the Alternator has a messed up voltage regulator.
20 bucks and take it someplace to have it rebuilt. Scotty you better change an alt yourself. Not hard man.
Coop
[quote=""Melis""]The cop asked Coop "Are you really a firefighter?" Coop was like "yeah" then the cop said "ok your in charge" then the cop left
[/quote]