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The VR4 no longer seems to charge it's battery.
I bought a brand-new battery (Sears Gold series). She started up just fine. I drove her home (about a 10 minute drive) and tried to start her again after I parked. Started fine.
The next day, I drove to a local restaurant (about 15 minutes away). I started the car and it tried pretty damn hard..all the lights dimmed, ALOT, but there was just enough juice to turn it over.
But, she drove home just fine. No hesitation..lights worked fine. Even at idle, everything was great.
A couple days later, I tried to turn her over and she won't. Just not enough juice.

Tonight I tried replacing the battery terminals (pretty corroded). Nothing left..the lights turn on, but the car won't turn over.

So..I pulled the alternator relay (MD113566). What are the chances that it's this little $20 thing instead of an alternator or an exposed wire?
If I have to replace an alternator I'm going to scream..I have no time for it. I don't have the patience for it right now, either.
If it's an exposed wire, I'm fucked..I have no idea how to trace one of those down, nor do I have the time or patience to learn right now. I've got too much fucking stuff on my mind to be adding another dead car to list.

I'm 5 seconds from just selling every piece of shit car I own and buying a Honda.

Local parts stores can test alternator while its in the car.

[quote=""Shawn96VR-4""]Local parts stores can test alternator while its in the car.[/quote]

I didn't know that, thanks, man. At least I can get one possible cause checked. I'll take it out to..what, autozone? advanced? sears auto center?

Pull the negative cable on the battery when its running and if it dies they alternator is probably bad.

[quote=""CHAN""]Pull the negative cable on the battery when its running and if it dies they alternator is probably bad.[/quote]

And you can possible fuck shit up. No thanks.

AutoZone/Advanced Auto does it. I'd grab a volt meter and start checking it out. Replacing alt isn't THAT bad. A bit to go from the top though

[quote=""Shawn96VR-4""]And you can possible fuck shit up. No thanks.

AutoZone/Advanced Auto does it. I'd grab a volt meter and start checking it out. Replacing alt isn't THAT bad. A bit to go from the top though[/quote]





slap a volt meter across the battery terminals while its running. not a perfect test but it gives you an idea.

Take a volt meter and test the voltage of the battery with the car running. If it's under 13.5volt, I'll be out in a couple weeks with my spare alternator to swap in for you.

[quote=""Shawn96VR-4""]And you can possible fuck shit up. No thanks.

AutoZone/Advanced Auto does it. I'd grab a volt meter and start checking it out. Replacing alt isn't THAT bad. A bit to go from the top though[/quote]

you never want to disconnect the battery while the car is running unless the factory service manual directs you to. There were actually service procedures on some Infiniti's that told you to disconnect the battery with the car running. All of the mechanics there were like "no way thats how you break stuff" lol

I got my battery replaced today (for free, thankfully) and while I was out there I bought a battery charger..I figured "why not?"
Turns out it's also an Alternator Tester. Lucky break.

Anyway, I connected the tester to the battery terminals, then turned the car on. The "Alternator" percentage showed 0%.
So, I tried connecting the positive cable of the tester to the nut directly on the alternator (the one under the little plastic cap). I attached the negative cable to the engine-hoise-hook on the block (hoping that would be a ground).
Once again, the alternator display read 0%.

Additionally, while the car was running, I checked the battery voltage and it reads 12.9.

So..dead alternator? (and yeah, i put the alternator relay back in before I did this I also checked for any blown fuses and found none).

99% chance its a bad alt.

Yeah, bad alternator. I changed my alternator in the stealth in less than 90 minutes WITHOUT removing the radiator. Just put a nice piece of cardboard over the radiator to prevent damage.

jesus christ.


you dont have to fucking remove the radiator. undo 4 12mm bolts and take off the hold downs. takes what? 45 seconds? unplug fans and sensors (if you got em) and lift. fold radiator over trans. now you have all the room you need to take the alt out.

[quote=""Zentelis""]So..dead alternator? (and yeah, i put the alternator relay back in before I did this I also checked for any blown fuses and found none).[/quote]

Yep. I can come down Thursday night and have it installed in about 30 minutes.

[quote=""Monochrome""]Yep. I can come down Thursday night and have it installed in about 30 minutes. [/quote]

I'll be out of town thursday night until saturday night
How 'bout Sunday? Can you stretch the alternator swap out to 8 hours so i can detail your car

If I don't go to OBX this weekend, sunday should work.

[quote=""vr4""]jesus christ.


you dont have to fucking remove the radiator. undo 4 12mm bolts and take off the hold downs. takes what? 45 seconds? unplug fans and sensors (if you got em) and lift. fold radiator over trans. now you have all the room you need to take the alt out.[/quote]


I know, but service manual says you need to remove radiator and all this other crap. It took me about 45 minutes total from first bolt out to last bolt in.

[quote=""JagdStealth""]I know, but service manual says you need to remove radiator and all this other crap. It took me about 45 minutes total from first bolt out to last bolt in.[/quote]



sorry if i came off harsh. its just so simple to lift it over the engine i dont understand why ppl complain about coolant and taking too long.

You don't need to take the radiator out. It's a tight ass fit though. 30 minute replacement is fast.

Yea, that's a bad radiator. I got mine rebuild for $60 I think?

Unless you have a koyo radiator... then you will need to pull it to swap it.