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It is probably fine... Probably just condensation over time from weather changes.

[quote=""mjannusch""]It is probably fine... Probably just condensation over time from weather changes.[/quote]

I tend to agree. I do t know of Jeff’s yard does this but ours either pull the drain plug or puncture the pan and pull the oil filter. I think that might be the leading cause.

Steve wrote:I tend to agree. I do t know of Jeff’s yard does this but ours either pull the drain plug or puncture the pan and pull the oil filter. I think that might be the leading cause.

The yard I got this engine from doesn't puncture their oil pans. The drain plug was out, but the sump was still intact so it could hide a little leftover oil.

There's not a lot of pictures, but I actually got a fair amount done between yesterday and today.

Yesterday I finished up my left side motor mount. The original 6G72 mount only picked up two M10 bolts on the block. The other bosses are missing from the 75 block. The 74 mounts had similar problems. So I cut a plate out of 1/4" steel so it'd pick up an M14 bolt further back. Then I tacked on a leg from one of the 72 mounts I had.





This is the first time I've picked up a welder in years. I'm just happy the tacks held. It lined up on the first try. I'm going to drop it off at the auto shop by the office and have them do a final weld on it. I don't trust myself to do it properly, and I don't think my welder can properly penetrate such thick metal anyway.

Now the engine is back out, hopefully for the last time. I pulled the spark plugs, and they all looked clean. I looked down in the bores with my crappy little USB endoscope and they looked dry. I also pulled the pan back off and re-checked the bottom sides of the bores. That all looked good too. I pulled the left valve cover and the head was spotless inside. If the block is damaged, then so be it. I'll find out the hard way.

While the pan was off, I drilled out holes for the two bolts that are different between the Kia pan and the Mitsu block. Once I get an oil pickup gasket, I can install that for good.

One of my Montero Sport 6G74 manifolds had a 270° crack in it, so I picked up some full size Montero 6G74 manifolds as a replacement. It was a big pain in the ass. And it turns out it was a complete waste of time and money. The drivers side manifold hits the steering column. So I'm back to the Montero Sport manifolds. I ordered a Chinese right side manifold from eBay to replace the ruined one.

I think I decided what to do with the fuel lines, so I need to order parts for that, along with some more OEM stuff from RockAuto.

My brake master cylinder seems to have sprung a spontaneous leak. There was a small puddle of brake fluid under the truck. I can see where it leaked down along the booster and the body. Something else to add to the list of stuff to repair and replace.

While I'm waiting for parts, I'm going to start cleaning up the engine bay and building brackets for the airbox and Outlander radiator. The first thing to do there is knock out the spacer panels from the front end.

My truck was hit at some point, and it looked like they grafted on the front end from a 4 cylinder. Those have smaller radiators and some panels to size down the opening.



A few minutes with my spot weld cutter fixed that up.



I also made some progress on the 3G Eclipse ROM I'm going to use as the basis for my Phase 1 ECU. I need that to control the fans on the Outlander radiator. They're not based on simple relays like on the 3000GT. I could have just kept the mechanical fan, but I figured I'll want to get it working eventually, so I may as well figure it out now.

Cool!


Coop

I need a 90° adapter for one of my MIVEC oil pressure sensors. It uses the same thread as the main oil pressure sensor.

I've read these are 1/8 BSPT thread. Can anyone confirm that? I'm probably going to order these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT5-1-8-BSP-m ... 2446382465

Are you gonna paint any of the front? I see a lot of surface rust, there is this paint pr15 or something like that, you can paint over rust and it stops it from rusting. Would be simple, quick, and effective.


Coop

I'm planning to. Going to hit it with some brushes and wire wheels, then a rust converter, and finally some basic black paint. Maybe this is a good excuse to try the Rustoleum brush on stuff rather than spray. I plan to do the body that way eventually.

[quote=""Jeff V.""]I need a 90° adapter for one of my MIVEC oil pressure sensors. It uses the same thread as the main oil pressure sensor.

I've read these are 1/8 BSPT thread. Can anyone confirm that? I'm probably going to order these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT5-1-8-BSP-m ... 2446382465[/quote]

I'm going to say yes it is 1/8 BSPT, as that is what the oil pressure sender thread is on the 6G72, so I would assume the threads are the same on the 75.

Professional welds. $30, while you wait

totally worth it! Now you can trust and not worry about it.


Coop

That is a skill I have been wanting to learn. Welding.

A lot of welding is a good machine. I would love to have a great mig and tig set up. Prob good I dont, I would be making subframes and tons of other stuff I dont need to be doing lol.


Coop

Yep. He did all 4 edges too. Inner and outer. The factory welds were only along the outside. Probably overkill, but a nice touch anyway.

I just need to make a spacer for the back, and it's done. I could use washers, but those would be a pain to position. So I'll cut a single piece and just tack weld it on. The bolts will clamp it in place, so those welds don't need to be load bearing. The factory mount actually had something similar.

[quote=""Jeff V.""]I need a 90° adapter for one of my MIVEC oil pressure sensors. It uses the same thread as the main oil pressure sensor.

I've read these are 1/8 BSPT thread. Can anyone confirm that? I'm probably going to order these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT5-1-8-BSP-m ... 2446382465[/quote]
Just plug the rear one. You don’t use them anyways. You can just the front one once you hit phase 2 can’t you?
[quote=""Jeff V.""]Professional welds. $30, while you wait

[/quote]

Looks awesome. Definitely overkill doing front and back but worth it!

Steve wrote:Just plug the rear one. You don’t use them anyways. You can just the front one once you hit phase 2 can’t you?

If I'm buying an 1/8 BSPT plug, I might as well buy an elbow and keep the sensor. The ECU I'm planning on using will expect two sensors anyway.

Trashed my first ECU tonight.

I was cross-flashing a couple of experimental ROM files. The first few went OK. But then I got the dreaded "failed to erase page at 0002C000".

Even though I've flashed with this exact same setup countless times, I figured maybe it was down to voltage. Maybe this ECU was in a fringe batch that was touchy about that. I was only showing 11.8v on the OpenPort.



Not to be deterred, I grabbed another power supply. That one was only showing 11.6. Didn't even try again with that combo.

So I pulled out all the stops. I got my big ass GM-recommended Midtronics PSC-550 charger/maintainer (It's on the floor, out of frame). I found out a bare ECU doesn't draw enough power to enable the charger, so I grabbed the battery from the truck to act as a load. Got the voltage up to 13.4.



Still not enough.

So now I've got a fragged ECU, and none of the data I was looking for. Wonderful.

That sucks. Which ecu was it?

98 Montero.

Might want to pick up a bench DC power supply for that... A battery charger is a pretty crude device, and is designed to vary the voltage according to amp draw so if voltage is crucial I'd look somewhere else.

Matt wrote:A battery charger is a pretty crude device

The PSC-550 is the device GM requires their dealerships to use when they're doing diagnostics and reprogramming. It's far from a 'crude charger'.

Midtronics PSC Power Supply/Battery Chargers provide clean and reliable power for charging and maintaining battery state-of-charge during service reflash, complex maintenance and in the showroom.