BAWC Forums

Drove the car for the first time in months. Man that battery tender kept it ready to go. Even though I just swap it around on vehicles.

I added some Torco fuel additive. Made my fuel about 100 oct. Seemed to really help with knock.

I’ve got an exhaust leak bad enough I got a small headache after about a 40 min drive. So I think I will put it on 4 jack stands outside and put some sea foam in to see if I can find the leak. I think it’s one of the original flanges right before the muffler.


Coop

Meant to say I was driving out and someone stopped in the road to walk on the other side of the road to save a turtle. Well he left me no where to go, I LAID on the brakes and they felt like shit. Absolute shit. Just never felt like the pads slowed me down. Don’t know if I messed something up sandblasting/painting or what but I think I’m gonna get some new brake pads upfront as it was scary bad.


Coop

In the back of my mind I keep thinking about how BAD my brakes were the other day. I should be able to slam so hard I lock them up, as I have before, not that it’s faster to stop but I was pushing on them with everything I had and I had solid peddle but no real response.

So back when I failed at my big brake upgrade, I did sandblast my wheels and paint just the outside and insides (I taped off the braking surface). I know brakes need to seat but could I have ruined the seat with that sand blasting? Can they work properly again? Would that be the soul cause? It really felt like I was stopping a truck....not a car.


Coop

With the steering finished I bought some CF accent parts off the guy in Facebook. They fit a 9/10 I would say. Havnt been brave enough to take off the window control cover. I think I have an old door skin I can practice on first.


Coop

Got the car out and played around. Went and saw a local who has the Pearl yellow one, he drives his 2014 v8 twin turbo awd Mercedes most the time but he came out to look at the steering wheel and window cowl and we killed an hour talking. Good times.

The brakes deff need to seat some. They arnt even getting shinny after multiple hard brakes.

Honestly think it’s just time to upgrade them.


Coop

Picked this week to get my other vr4 running. Part of me doesn’t want to as what if I get it running and the radiator fails, or wheel bearings are out, just makes getting it running pretty pointless to sell if you are gonna lose money anyways by something else.

Anyways. Got the injectors, fuel rail spacers, plenum bolts....and forgot lower injector insulators. Thought I had some, but they were uppers. So I’m trying to find some.

Cleaned out all the trash out of it, need to swap out tires on it, will prob do that tomorrow while I wait for injector stuff. Don’t really like how lose the timing belt is, so I might throw on a new tensioner and belt. I have all that sitting here so it’s not costing me anything but time.

The whole cars pealing. Really I feel bad ruining this VR4. I should have taken a little better care of it over the years. At least a car cover.

Oh well. I’ll get it running enough that someone can see/hear it run and take it for a drive. But really nothing special. Just try and get very little out of out and out of my mind.

I had an offer from a local for 1250 as he wants the running gear to go in a stealth. But just the flashed ecu, upgraded maf, and tatrix are worth over half that. I know I can’t nit pick what parts are worth as they arnt worth shit on the car and used but I just can’t let it go for that.

The good.
FMIC
255 fuel pump
6 speed braced bellhousing
4 bolt block and wiring harness.
Defi peak hold gauges
Mono steering wheel adapter (has the wheel too but it’s kind of bad)
Chromed ecu
Enki 5 spoke wheels
And I’m sure others I’m forgetting.


Coop

If you part it out, I'd consider the trans, transfer case, and driveshaft.

Also, spin the motor over by hand a few times and see if the timing belt tightens up. I think with the way the hydraulic tensioner works, it should tighten up doing this. Might save some time replacing the timing belt etc.

[quote=""aaronatstate""]If you part it out, I'd consider the trans, transfer case, and driveshaft.

Also, spin the motor over by hand a few times and see if the timing belt tightens up. I think with the way the hydraulic tensioner works, it should tighten up doing this. Might save some time replacing the timing belt etc.[/quote]

I’m not gonna part it out. It’s not in me, not only destroying a vr4 but the time and energy.

But I will sell you the car and you can strip it.


Coop

Got all the wheels off. Getting tires changed right now. Costing me 85 bucks. But hard to sell a vehicle you can’t drive. Plus it gets 4 tires out of my garage. I forgot how much it sucks to work outside. Let me rephrase that. I didn’t forget. I don’t miss it. I’m on flattish ground, so things shift, drop a tool it’s much easier to find in a garage, just all around don’t miss it what so ever. Hats off to those that do.

Coop

This place was crazy. They didn’t want to swap the tires because they were over 10yrs old. So after talking with them they would do it for cash....for half. Lol. Then one tire they didn’t like so they got me another one but it’s a diff rolling distance from the others so it looks stupid. So that will be fun to track down something that works.

Stupid. But then it’s raining so the cars on jack stands in the rain because in my youth I would be working on it in this. Not anymore.


Coop

This summer I will not have to pick up any of my kids before going home. Gonna try and drive the vr4 too and from work.

To do in order to drive the car some this summer.
Fix the brakes
Click click start relay
Hot wire wipers
Could use an alignment.

Some other little things but this is a start.


Coop

[quote=""DCIV""]Click click start relay

Coop[/quote]

I used to have this, until I replaced my ignition switch and starter, and now I don't need it. So you may really have a different issue potentially.

[quote=""aaronatstate""]I used to have this, until I replaced my ignition switch and starter, and now I don't need it. So you may really have a different issue potentially.[/quote]

Honestly. This may be the option because I need to kill two birds with one stone.

The key release button broke on mine. It’s annoying...very annoying.

Could this also get me to where I can fix that?

Coop

[quote=""DCIV""]Honestly. This may be the option because I need to kill two birds with one stone.

The key release button broke on mine. It’s annoying...very annoying.

Could this also get me to where I can fix that?

Coop[/quote]

Yes, though the ignition switch is separate from that button.

Can you turn rotors that have been drilled?


Coop

[quote=""DCIV""]Can you turn rotors that have been drilled?


Coop[/quote]

I wouldn't. I would just get new blank rotors honestly. Drilled are over-rated, and unless you are doing a lot of track days, blank rotors are fine. Hell, even Maddogg ran blanks on his track car, and just replaced them every couple of track events.

But I like the looks of them. Don’t care if they are performance based. Just sucks as I didn’t want to have to replace these.


Coop

Bought the ebc that has the black coating so it will not rust. So this stupid brake redo is costing almost 600 bucks.


Coop

That's why i always run blanks save a fortune

Getting closer to the price of big brake kit...