Weird 3S problem (not mine)

[stealthee]

[quote=""BATMAN""]If this were your car what would be your next step?[/quote]

[vr4]

[quote=""stealthee""][/quote]

[Jeff V.]

[BATMAN]

Painful

[Jeff V.]

Take all the fun stuff off your car. CF hood, turbos, red interior.

Torch it.

Give me 6k for my car. Put your old parts on my car. Your worst problem will become 'keeping black paint clean'.

We both win.

[BATMAN]

I don't know Jeff. Hans new purchase sure is sexy and tempting to know what they want for it.

Painful was just a joke comment. The white tumbler isn't going anywhere

[Jeff V.]

[BATMAN]

Failed. I have red interior not light grey.

[Hans_GZP]

[quote=""BATMAN""]I don't know Jeff. Hans new purchase sure is sexy and tempting to know what they want for it.

Painful was just a joke comment. The white tumbler isn't going anywhere[/quote]

I have a fully redone 97 vr4 with 16T turbos and all supporting mods available right now. We just have to break the new engine in on the dyno. $9000

The spyder vr4 will be in the $18k-20k range.

[BATMAN]

That's awesome that they are still worth so much but I still like my stealth ass over a vr4 any day. Yes the spyder is sick. I'll never be able to afford one wrecked or mint.

Turbos are turning freely.
Went by Jeff's to talk and grab the few items I asked to borrow.
Place the NA air intake maf bubble thing on it didn't start the car. It seemed to act like it was doing more than before but it might just be in my head.

I think it's time to say what everybody has been mumbling, tear down the motor.

Any last words?

Could a oil pump cause this issue I'm having? It may only have 900 miles on it, 6 maybe even 7 years old and has been welded from a cam angle sensor bolt going into it. Yes the oil pump ran most of its current life AFTER the weld job.
Yes I have only put <1000 miles on 2 rebuilds in 7 years.

[BATMAN]

https://youtu.be/WLRYHv1iyTk



Audio not good. I must of had my fingers over the mic

[DCIV]

Wow. That's so close to starting it's not even funny.

I don't see how the oil pump would cause this but one sensor I thought about was the clutch sensor at the base of the clutch peddle. It would cause a no start situation and no code. Mine went bad and I just unplug it, bad thing is it will start if in gear....you only forget once.


Before you go tearing it apart, unplug that thing and try again. With the car in neutral and your foot not on the clutch


Coop

[mjannusch]

Different throttle body. Different battery. Change spark plugs.

If it were the clutch safety switch, it wouldn't crank.

[DCIV]

[quote=""mjannusch""]Different throttle body. Different battery. Change spark plugs.

If it were the clutch safety switch, it wouldn't crank.[/quote]

Dang you are right, I just remembered it wasn't starting...forgot it wasn't cranking.


Coop

[BATMAN]

l unplugged the safety switch first thing I bought the car. I never have liked needing to push a clutch in to start it.

I failed to mention the TB. I used the Biss screw from Jeff's tb he let me borrow and placed it in mine. I can't justify purchasing a new battery just to testing reasons. Is their a more economic way? The battery that was in their is discharged and the same for the Pontiac. So I'm using the intended new battery for the stealth in the Pontiac.

[stealthee]

That weak battery isn't helping, but I don't think it's why it isn't starting.

The way it is cranking almost sounds like a car that is 180 out would sound when trying to start.

[DCIV]

I thought it almost sounded like it had either loss of compression on 3, or was only firing on 3.


Coop

[stealthee]

Well he has already confirmed he has compression, but I could see the latter being a possibility,

[Hans_GZP]

To me it sounds like a messed up firing order. But I'm sure somewhere in this mess people had you double check the wires were on the right coils . Of course that wouldn't explain why it just suddenly wouldn't start. But it sounds like it's fighting itself.

[BATMAN]

The intake was extremely warm after cranking it as many times as I did.

I'm just dumbfounded at this point as to what it could be outside of something wrong internal.

It was running.
Timing marks are on point
it has 40pfp
Spark is happening
Every known part needed for initial start up has been test, swapped out or replaced with new.

What are we missing???

I'm on the second set of plugs. Should I go purchase another set? Don't worry I don't buy those OEM grade plugs I use the cheap NGKs bk r6es