BAWC Forums

Leave it black. Helps to give contrast to all that silver and chrome.

The guy I was going to use for a dyno tune is not responding to calls, text, email, etc. so I am going to just use my email guy for now. Got a quote for a tune from a place in Kirkland, $910. No thank you. Guy in Vancouver charges $500 I think. That is reasonable. Email guy because I already have an intune is only $175.

Got the CEL for the cats so put in some non foulers and that should work. Basically you get the spark plug non-foulers, drill them out enough to fit the O2 sensors, then install in the O2 sensor location between the sensor and exhaust. Moves the sensor out of the main stream so it tricks it into thinking things are ok. Gasses still get in, but much less so it thinks the cats are functioning better.

Will take it out tonight to get my first datalog.

He then will create a custom tune file and then email it back to me.

I import the custom tune file into the intune... then connect the tool to my car and select the custom tune to install, then install the tune.

Then drive however I normally do for a couple/few days until I've put on at least about 150-200+ miles so that the fuel trims and such have been relearned by the ECM and have settled in.

I then do a WOT data log, send it to him, he makes any needed adjustments to WOT fueling/timing, sends me an updated tune, I install it, get a new WOT data log for him to check. Repeat as needed until everything all looks good.

$500 is cheap for a dyno tune. $900 seems reasonable

havent even begun to think about whos tuning the sti. I should maybe figure that out with all the epa shit thats come down since ive last used my normal guy

Could always learn to do it yourself.

Unless you want to extract every single oz of power out of it, you don't need a dyno tune. Just do the e-mail tune. If you ever get a blower or heads/cam whatever, then go to a dyno.

Got my 1st round custom tune today. Going to install it. Then after a few days and a couple hundred miles, time to get a WOT for confirm everything.

To get a good WOT log, get a nice warm day, and you need to have traction control & stabilitrak turned off/disabled..

Make sure you have driven the vehicle for at least 15-20 minutes first to get the engine/tranny up to normal operating temps...

Then start from a dead stop if you can, or at least from as slow of a roll as possible, and get a good launch - roll into it quick, but so you don't have a lot of wheel spin, and as you get up to a little more speed, then just GET ON IT!!

Pretend you're on a drag-strip racing someone - get a good launch - then hammer-down and go for as long as you can, through as many gears as you can - at least all the way through 3rd gear if possible...

It shifts out of third at over 120 mph.

Get to it

Tunes installed. I will take it out after work tonight for a quick spin to see how things feel.

Fix the lean condition yet?

Ya. Removed the "power wedge" and catch can. That solved it. I am not worried about the wedge going back in, but I might do the catch can. However not sure how much it is helping. Still saw some oil in the intake manifold and throttle body. There was some in the can too, but not sure if helping enough. More research suggests I need 2, one for each side. I will look into later.

The wedge had a weird gasket that I assume wasn't sitting right or the filter on the catch can wasn't seated right.

C6 is still port injection right? If so, I wouldn't even run a catch can honestly.

Correct. The good ol LS3 engine.

No I didn't almost die. I just dropped my phone when the torque hit.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZUJuQns8RZE? ... k4NWmD2HMK

That sounds damn good.

Duck Vader wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2024 12:16 am No I didn't almost die. I just dropped my phone when the torque hit.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZUJuQns8RZE? ... k4NWmD2HMK

That straight is about a mile long section of road that I never seen traffic on. Followed by a few miles of some moderate twisty sections. Will be a great place to get my WOT log.

Trying to decide if I want to do a minor buff/wax on the car. Definitely swirls and streaks in the clear coat from 16 years of washes but there is also paint chips, decent curb rash on front bumper cover, etc. I can clean it up but it's a drivers car. Going to get dirty a lot. Not sure if worth the time and effort. I have everything from when I drove the Subaru through a bush that would clean it up, but the chips and rash might stand out more if rest is better looking. Lol

The post by Jeff made me want to go look at the scrapes/chips on mine more.

I know hard to see on a silver car but for some reason they bother me. Not like this is a show car, but I kind of want to do something about them. Not sure what though.

Passenger side halo:



Driver side mirror:



Front bumper passenger side curb rash that was poorly "fixed" by previous owner:



This is also on the passenger side by the front wheel/tire:



Of course this is other small rock chips and scrapes but only surface stuff that I could easily buff out since only in the clear coat.

Again not horrible, but enough that I can't help but see them.

I would have to have multiple posts to show what’s wrong with my vr4.


Coop