Lets talk subframe

[aaronatstate]

[quote=""DCIV""]All the hard mines I have in very very good condition. I bet mine are still good as well as my car spent it’s whole life in Alabama. Same with the steering rack, the one I bought is very good.

Are the ball joints pressed in? Or are they somehow different from the front?


Coop[/quote]

I don't think there are ball joints at all. I think the steering rack just deflects the bushings IIRC (it's only 1.5°).

[DCIV]

[quote=""aaronatstate""]I don't think there are ball joints at all. I think the steering rack just deflects the bushings IIRC (it's only 1.5°).[/quote]

I was talking about the ball joints in the lower control arm. I would replace all of that as well.

But yes I think you are right about the bushings. Looking at it you wouldn’t even think it moves.

I think I’m gonna have to take all these parts to a sand blaster. I just spent 40 mins on the diff bracket and only got 1/3rd the way through it. So maybe paying someone too blast them is a better option. Plus only a couple pieces will fit in my blasting booth.

These bolts even need to be replaced. They are all on there very hard. So might as well while I’m there.


Coop

[mjannusch]

If you can figure out how to make new lines, or what seals to use in the steering rack, you could make a little business out of reselling that stuff. I think most people don't WANT to lose the AWS, but when it starts leaking don't have much of a choice.

[DCIV]

[quote=""mjannusch""]If you can figure out how to make new lines, or what seals to use in the steering rack, you could make a little business out of reselling that stuff. I think most people don't WANT to lose the AWS, but when it starts leaking don't have much of a choice.[/quote]

I wouldn’t want to bend them all or know where to try and order that stuff from.

Some proportioning valve looks really rusted on my spare subframe. I’m sure that’s not easy to have made either.


Coop

[Jeff V.]

I could probably figure out what seals to use in the rack. I figured out the Spyder stuff without too much headache. The problem is the hydraulic lines. They're high pressure, and you need some seriously expensive and heavy duty equipment to crimp them properly. The materials wouldn't be cheap either.

You'll be hard pressed to get someone to spend a few hundred dollars on parts they can just delete from a car that might have only cost $5000 to begin with.

[DCIV]

Once this is all done I might lay them out a get correct drawings/measurements of them for anyone wanting to go fix theirs later. But that’s only if someone can tell me exactly how so it would be easily duplicated.

I don’t even know what to call these bushings are called but the ones that allow the rear steer to move...are those available still? How are those even attached? I almost want a someone’s ruined one to tear apart.


Coop


Coop

[Jeff V.]

I'll try to get you some diagrams later tonight.

[ChargerX3]

Have any pictures of the hydraulic lines you want to replace?

[aaronatstate]

[quote=""DCIV""]I was talking about the ball joints in the lower control arm. I would replace all of that as well.

But yes I think you are right about the bushings. Looking at it you wouldn’t even think it moves.

I think I’m gonna have to take all these parts to a sand blaster. I just spent 40 mins on the diff bracket and only got 1/3rd the way through it. So maybe paying someone too blast them is a better option. Plus only a couple pieces will fit in my blasting booth.

These bolts even need to be replaced. They are all on there very hard. So might as well while I’m there.


Coop[/quote]

You’ll have to press the ball joints out and figure that one out. Or just buy new lower control arms, they are still available.

[DCIV]

[quote=""ChargerX3""]Have any pictures of the hydraulic lines you want to replace?[/quote]

I have all the lines minus one that has a fitting and hose on it. I will take some pictures.


Coop

[DCIV]

Here are the two cut lines. I think one on the left is cut on my other lines. The one on the right I bet my current car has the fitting and I just need the hose thats bent that way.



Coop

[ChargerX3]

Those should be easily doable. Now of the hard lines are shot that would be a bit more challenging. I was going to tool up to build lines like those but have yet to bite the bullet. Makes me wish I did now.

[stealthee]

They technically don't have to be hard lines. You could do crimped hydraulic line as long as you can get the correct fittings for the ends.

[DCIV]

[quote=""ChargerX3""]Those should be easily doable. Now of the hard lines are shot that would be a bit more challenging. I was going to tool up to build lines like those but have yet to bite the bullet. Makes me wish I did now.[/quote]

It would be nice if that one hose on the right has the bends as factory does though.

Hopefully tomorrow I will have time to snap a lot of pics and start taking apart.


Coop

[DCIV]

[quote=""stealthee""]They technically don't have to be hard lines. You could do crimped hydraulic line as long as you can get the correct fittings for the ends.[/quote]

This is correct. I did the same with my brake lines. I will prob go to Napa to get the hose on the left. They do it in an hour.


Coop

[stealthee]

If you have any other hydraulic supply shop you can probably save a ton of money. NAPA extremely overcharges for their hydraulic lines

[DCIV]

[quote=""stealthee""]If you have any other hydraulic supply shop you can probably save a ton of money. NAPA extremely overcharges for their hydraulic lines[/quote]

still extremely cheap as far as the big picture, not worried about it.

Coop

[aaronatstate]

[quote=""stealthee""]If you have any other hydraulic supply shop you can probably save a ton of money. NAPA extremely overcharges for their hydraulic lines[/quote]

[quote=""DCIV""]still extremely cheap as far as the big picture, not worried about it.

Coop[/quote]

If you have an O'reilly near by that makes hydraulic lines (and it's cheaper) you can go there. Same exact hose that is at NAPA, just with a different label

[Jeff V.]

This is a little steep, but it'll be brand new and there's no guesswork with the banjo fitting.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-MB6 ... 1128448047

[DCIV]

That is expensive. I wonder if calling up cherry hill if it would be cheaper or not? I need to call them up about the factory bushings that connect the subframe to the body. Those I want factory. The rest Poly. Since I have yet dropped a sub frame and only see holes for the rear diff, are there bushings or something that go there? Or just strait bolt in.


Coop

Coop