Things that make you.....lean

[DCIV]

I also don’t get why I have “b” selected. I get the chart shows a “b” under aux but the “b” is suppose to be wot not aux.

Confusing.


Coop

[mjannusch]

Yes, disconnect the battery for a minute and then try again.

[mjannusch]

How about a photo of all the switches/knobs/etc in your Maf Translator? I can't follow what all you are describing.

[aaronatstate]

What does the fuel pressure read without vacuum? Also please post the settings for your injector size and latencies that are flashed into the ECU.

[DCIV]

Dangit, got all ready to check/flash the ecu. Got the 2003 laptop out, hooked up a battery charger to the battery....can’t find my tatix. Must be where I use to keep the car. Thought I kept it in the car. Guess not. Shit.


Coop

[aaronatstate]

You don’t need to hook up to the ECU to check, unless you didn’t save your latest tune on your computer...

[Jeff V.]

Don't reflash it unless you need to. There's always the risk of bricking it. Check your settings first, then decide if it needs to be flashed.

[mjannusch]

It should never get "unflashed". Shouldn't be any reason to flash it just because.

[Hans_GZP]

If you're using the MAFT for fuel tuning, then just slap a stock ecu back in it. Chrome versions are far less tolerant to bad O2 signals than a factory 1G ecu. But a bad O2 can cause all kinds of fuckery.

[DCIV]

I’m not using it for tuning, im using it to run blow through. It was all just set wrong.


Cooo

[DCIV]

Matt I will be glad to send you a pic, still haven’t gotten this whole photo thing fixed.

My injectors are set to 535

My table reads as such
4.69:3.315
7.03:1.680
9.38:1.035
11.72:0.675
14.06:0.435
16.41:0.270
18.68:0.150

I know there is a little exhaust leak, In the down pipe, even thought it’s all v-band, so I’m gonna try and fix that this morning.

I still think the knobs on my maft should be 2 (for 360) and then 2 and 2. Right now it’s 2 and 0 and 0. I thin that basically says 360 idle, 320 mid and 320 high. Hence some of my issue.


Coop

[DCIV]

So I can run my hand around the v clams. No exhaust dust on my hands. Even the downpipe end that’s not a vband.

I don’t know why I smell like exhaust when I get out of the car.

I thought maybe my Wideband was giving a false reading because of an air leak but it’s just not the case. At least to the downpipe. The one connector after that looks very old, still when shaking the exhaust it’s fine.

Wonder if my flex section lets more exhaust through then I would like? Wonder if I could heat wrap that and it would suppress it. Funny enough this is my early powder coating days and the down pipe does have some spots that have come off, I didn’t prep as well, and I don’t remember if I used any high temp stuff, but the flex section powder coat has stayed. Lol.


Coop

[DCIV]

Re pressure tested as all this stuff changes with heat cycles. I found a couple small leaks and I mean small. Some I could fix, some I need new clamps. But overall it’s pretty damn good.

Can’t really start the car till moms home with the baby so I can’t get you FP numbers till then.

Did my ecu stuff look correct?


Coop

[DCIV]

So I had only gotten to look at my fp gauge after I shut it off. It was sitting on 37. Well I took off the hose and while carbon dioxide was filling my garage and it’s getting hard breath it was at 40, so even though my Wideband reads lean and it obviously isn’t, I upped the FP, then downed the biss a little.

This motherfucker pulls HARD! No knock, Wideband says lean, obviously not, still lugging at 2ish...like it wants upshift..so odd.

I’m gonna take it to swimming tonight we will see.


Coop

[aaronatstate]

Those are the right latencies. Fuel pressure should be 43.5 with no vacuum.

[DCIV]

FP made it worse. Pretty much back to not driveable. Had to go back home and switch out cars.

Still pulls harder in boost than it ever has.


Coop

[mjannusch]

Brave man, boosting it when it isn't running right!

So right now, you've got Chrome set for 535s and the MAF-T is set for 360s? But some of the MAF-T knobs are set to 320 or something like that? I'd flatten those all out to 360cc to start.

What exactly do you have on the car for O2 sensors? Narrowbands in both banks? A Wideband? Two widebands? If you have narrowbands, do both read lean, or does one read rich and the other lean?

What year is your car (thinking wiring crossed O2 sensors here)?

[DCIV]

Cars a 92, have stock narrow bands and a Wideband. I didn’t have a choice about boost. It would backfire and pop and act stupid and then take the fuck off. I have blackstealth logger in the tac, no knock.

I played with those settings on the maft and it didn’t help much.

I think crossed o2’s As well. I need my tatrix but I’ve lost it.


Coop

[mjannusch]

92 shouldn't have to worry about moving O2 wiring around as far as I know. I had to on my Spyder because it uses CA emissions and Mitsu swapped them around on the ECU so you can't replace a CA ECU with a Fed ECU.

I'd consider using a multimeter and some jumper wires to determine if there's continuity between the O2 sensor harness signal pin and the correct pin at the ECU.

Using a Tactrix hooked up and logging with Evoscan would show you immediately if you were to just unplug one O2 sensor, but without a Tactrix that's a no-go...

[DCIV]

Blackstealth logger shows me those. I can tell you in the morning.


I’m ordering a new tatrix. I’m gonna need one.


Coop