Lets talk timing

[Jeff V.]

I'm not blaming the tensioner. I'm just saying that a tight tensioner is not all that relevant to the discussion. It can be tight and still have problems.

[DCIV]

noted. I am happy that the timing didn't skip. But why did the belt push?


Coop

[Duck Vader]

Does this help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i5shI6jij0

[DCIV]

[quote=""Duck Vader""]Does this help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i5shI6jij0[/quote]

wow! I must say first that my tension was set exactly how it should and not over torqued....it is now though. I didn't think a hydraulic tensioner could fail in the out position, can someone please comment on that?

Second.....why do we not have these? I want that....I may have that made.


Coop

[DCIV]

http://www.kstuned.com/products/walk-blocker

Um....I am going to make one of these. Stay tuned.


Coop

[ChargerX3]

Im almost certain its the water pump. Ive seen and had the pump give out and first thing it does is make the belt walk and sometimes skip time. Seen it on quite a few 3s's. Check and see how true your pump is.

[DCIV]

The cuts are the deepest around the water pump....entirely through around the rear valve cover. Going to use my dad's mic's and draw this part up. I will take it to a couple places to make later this week.


Coop

[ChargerX3]

Yea, if you look close at the pump pulley it will be tweaked upward by a couple degrees.

[DCIV]

Parts mic'd and ordered for the timing tensioner pulley. Except mine will be press fit and set screwed. Should have pics mid week to next weekend.

Coop

[aaronatstate]

[quote=""DCIV""]http://www.kstuned.com/products/walk-blocker

Um....I am going to make one of these. Stay tuned.


Coop[/quote]


If you watched that video he explains that they need extra flanges to prevent the belt from moving when you OVER tension the belt. And when you over tension the belt it deflects the bolt holding the tensioner arm, which causes the belt to walk. So the put a big ass flange on the stock pulley to print the belt from walking off, but the bolt is still deflected. Basically the belt is just gonna ride hard against that flange, which is also not a good thing and will hurt the belt eventually. This is only needed on that engine when you have aggressive cams. If you have stock cams and tension the belt to the stock tension the belt doesn't walk, almost like it was designed that way.

So Don't waste your time. the flanges on the water pump and idler pulley will prevent belt the belt walking off the pulleys of everything else is running properly. One of the pulleys or gears flexed a lot more than normal to cause he belt to do that. Putting a large flange on the tensioner pulley most likely wouldn't have stopped your belt from being destroyed anyway. Basically what happens when the belt goes up and over a flange is it cuts it like a dull knife. All making a bigger flange will do is allow more flex then designed in the system and running the engine with something wrong and no way of knowing. I would concentrate on discovering what failed. You want to solve the true root cause, not treat the symptoms

[DCIV]

You are right and the water pump and any pulley are getting replaced....but I'm also adding this as insurance. As it would have probably stopped it from happening and this happened in a matter of Minutes, I would like more time of it were to happen again. Plus the part is already drawn up and ordered.


Coop

[jackhammer]

What a crock of shit. How about instead of drawing up some worthless part, buy a new tensioner pulley bracket because if anything in loose causing the belt to walk, its the swivel bearing on the bracket

[ChargerX3]

[quote=""jackhammer""]What a crock of shit. How about instead of drawing up some worthless part, buy a new tensioner pulley bracket because if anything in loose causing the belt to walk, its the swivel bearing on the bracket[/quote]

[Jeff V.]

In this thread, we learned that Coop is smarter than our resident mechanical engineer (who works for the company that designs the damn belts), a guy who has designed and sold high quality parts (Wayne), and however many engineers Mitsubishi employed to design the system in the first place.

opcorn:

[DCIV]

Jeff....when did I say that? I saw a product that is simple to make that no one makes for our car and am having one made.

With that Wayne lived with me while making those parts and I was a sounding wall a lot of times and helped him come up with ideas. He also used local places to make these high quality parts so I don't see your problem.


Coop

[jackhammer]

Please leave me out of your sorted affairs

[DCIV]

Well I do appreciate you saying it's the arm and bushing. Both have been ordered. Along with new pulleys and water pump.


Coop

[Silver]

That "product" is a bandaid for a real problem that needed fixed.

[DCIV]

1000% agree.

Here is my issue. This problem had no other warnings than "that's an odd sound" less than 20 seconds of run time later "shit that's my timing belt".

this would at least give someone some time, think if I was going down the interstate....think if I didn't pull over.

The origin of the problem will be fixed but the small cost and ability to make this is worth the piece of mind to me.

Coop

[tabasco122]

Belt issues suck. Ask me how i know XD.



Oil leak caused the belt to weaken and pop, got belt everywhere, including a 6"+ piece that went through the front crank seal into the pan. Damaged 4 pullies, two of which I was able to smooth out, two i didnt feel comfortable trying to smooth out. Thankfully everything is fine now, many people have issues with the belt fucking up again afterwards because of all the damage they do when they pop. One guy in the local group is on his 5th belt recently, it seems to pop after a few miles every time and he cant seem to figure out why.