BAWC Forums

[quote=""Jeff V.""]There was no spare to be had. I'll keep the steel one I have.

I think the yard guys took the wheels off when they laid it out. It was sitting pretty low. You're right about getting full sets though. It's tough, which is why I jumped on these.[/quote]

Over here the wheels don't even hit the yard. They take them to scrap. Claim they make more that way.

They also punch holes in everything now. Not just the gas tank

I paid $25 each + $15 core for these. That's got to be higher than the scrap price.

They said they'd take any aluminum wheel for the core, so I may try to make that part of my Craigslist deal. Someone can buy my wheels, give me their old junk wheels, I'll discount the core amount from what they pay, and then I'll claim the core from the yard next time I head up there.

How do you always seem to get so lucky in these junk yard finds?

Greg wrote:How do you always seem to get so lucky in these junk yard finds?

Row52 is the greatest website/app ever

It also helps that I have six self service yards within 30 min.

[quote=""Jeff V.""]Not yet. I'd really like to get 100% confirmation that the upper arms will fit, and then buy brand new ones. If I could find a source for the inboard bushings, I'd just rebuild junkyard arms.

It seems like half the info out there is for a 1st gen. So I'm getting a ton of mixed messages on the 2nd gen stuff, and then the 4x4s are even more rare. So we end up with wasted money and time like what happened with the seats. Same shit with the rear diff. I do not know, specifically what axle parts will work with my LSD and gear ratio, so I'm not spending $200+ along with a lot of hard work, to be wrong. Which really sucks, because there's seven Sports near me right now.

As for the brakes, I'm holding out for a full size 2nd gen. The front rotors and brackets are slightly thicker than the sport parts.[/quote]

http://www.superpro.com.au/find/superpr ... -999500598

Let me know if you need some bushings. We can get them ordered in. Some may have to come in from Australia.

[quote=""Jeff V.""]Not yet. I'd really like to get 100% confirmation that the upper arms will fit, and then buy brand new ones. If I could find a source for the inboard bushings, I'd just rebuild junkyard arms.

It seems like half the info out there is for a 1st gen. So I'm getting a ton of mixed messages on the 2nd gen stuff, and then the 4x4s are even more rare. So we end up with wasted money and time like what happened with the seats. Same shit with the rear diff. I do not know, specifically what axle parts will work with my LSD and gear ratio, so I'm not spending $200+ along with a lot of hard work, to be wrong. Which really sucks, because there's seven Sports near me right now.

As for the brakes, I'm holding out for a full size 2nd gen. The front rotors and brackets are slightly thicker than the sport parts.[/quote]

Yea, The info on the forums is quite generic and lacking specifics. Im not sold on the upper control arm swap. I really didnt measure any significant gains in installing it and then having to realign everything.

The front brake/rotor swap is worth doing. During my swap I found out that the SR and the MM use the same Master Cylinder. I swapped mine because the MM was weeping and I didnt want to rebuild. Little did I know that the SR was failing and would build up pressure and fail to relieve it with the pedal. Yea, driving down the road at 50mph and having your brakes tighten up until locking is not fun. Ended up pulling a 2000 Sport master that fixed the problem. Also it upgraded the piston from a 15/16ths to a 1".

The 98-01 sport rear axle swap would be worthwhile. They measure about 3" wider, so 1.5" poke over each side. Might not even be noticeable. The advantage there is being able to use the locker and having rear disks. Right now you have LSD which I would be happy with. Ill eventually install mine if I dont decide on the Sport.

Figuring out the rear diff gears on our 9" rear means we need to figure out the front first. Luckily we have the more favorable 4.22's, but I would like to bring that number down a bit to get great gas mileage. Ill probably pull the front diff out of the SR and see if I can get the 3.54 gears out of the 5 speed 3S to fit. If everything lines up Ill probably pick up the Ford small bearing 9" 3.55 ring and pinion to attempt to swap in the rear.

Just need to tackle this motor first.

[quote=""Hans_GZP""]http://www.superpro.com.au/find/superpr ... -999500598

Let me know if you need some bushings. We can get them ordered in. Some may have to come in from Australia.[/quote]

That is good to know.

Steve wrote:Im not sold on the upper control arm swap. I really didnt measure any significant gains in installing it and then having to realign everything.

My big thing is the ball joints can be unbolted vs needing a press. I think the people saying that they give additional travel when lifting the truck were talking about the 1st gen.

Steve wrote:The 98-01 sport rear axle swap would be worthwhile. They measure about 3" wider, so 1.5" poke over each side. Might not even be noticeable. The advantage there is being able to use the locker and having rear disks. Right now you have LSD which I would be happy with. Ill eventually install mine if I dont decide on the Sport.

I know it'll be worthwhile. I know we can eventually figure it out. IF we know what parts to match up and we don't end up with a bunch of discarded axle parts along the way.

Good luck finding a Sport locker for that. Hopefully the full size pumpkin can be made to fit a sport axle.

Steve wrote:Just need to tackle this motor first.

Yep. I'm still fighting the urge to lowball the people with the burned up '04. I'm also on the hunt for a spare manual trans. My 2nd gear syncro is all but gone.

Hans wrote:Let me know if you need some bushings. We can get them ordered in. Some may have to come in from Australia.

Thanks. I was going to go with a bunch of MasterPro stuff from O'Reilly, but this might be a better option as long as it's not dramatically more expensive.

Super Pro is generally more expensive, but lifetime warranty and a much better product. There might be a Whiteline equivalent, but they are not as good in the quality department.

Hmm I thought our ball joint could be unbolted. Ill have to look again. All the 3.5L and up axles use the same size axle/pumpkin. My SR locker will transfer over.

Wonder how hard it would be to rebuild your trans. At the least these are much easier to access and work on. My 2nd gear is a tad notchy as well, but only when I first start driving. After about 2 blocks its good.

Steve wrote:All the 3.5L and up axles use the same size axle/pumpkin. My SR locker will transfer over.

The problem is finding a 4.22 gear set for that. From what I've read, which as I've said could be very wrong, there's basically 3 Mitsu axle & diff kits.

8.0" = sub-3 liter engines
9.0" = 3.0 engines and MAYBE 3.5 RWD
9.5" = 3.5 and up plus various diesels

There's also potential issues with high vs low pinion front diffs. Swapping in the entire front diff assembly may be an acceptable way to deal with an axle mismatch. Depends on if it'll fit. The only trucks I've seen with ratios numerically lower than 4.22 are 2WD. The 3000GT and DSM might be an option though. Depending on what fits where.

One other fun that could affect this. Some engines have front sumps (truck, 3000GT, Sport), others have rear sumps (full size Montero) This could cause fitment issues with the front axle.


Fortunately, I love figuring this stuff out. But it does get a little troublesome when I don't have the parts in front of me. It gets expensive and physically demanding to fix that, especially when parts are not readily available at pick n pull prices

Found this in a random Google search.
I'll cross reference it to ASA later.

[quote=""Jeff V.""]The problem is finding a 4.22 gear set for that. From what I've read, which as I've said could be very wrong, there's basically 3 Mitsu axle & diff kits.

8.0" = sub-3 liter engines
9.0" = 3.0 engines and MAYBE 3.5 RWD
9.5" = 3.5 and up plus various diesels

There's also potential issues with high vs low pinion front diffs. Swapping in the entire front diff assembly may be an acceptable way to deal with an axle mismatch. Depends on if it'll fit. The only trucks I've seen with ratios numerically lower than 4.22 are 2WD. The 3000GT and DSM might be an option though. Depending on what fits where.

One other fun that could affect this. Some engines have front sumps (truck, 3000GT, Sport), others have rear sumps (full size Montero) This could cause fitment issues with the front axle.


Fortunately, I love figuring this stuff out. But it does get a little troublesome when I don't have the parts in front of me. It gets expensive and physically demanding to fix that, especially when parts are not readily available at pick n pull prices [/quote]

My understanding of of the rear axles is this:

8.0" = sub-3 liter engines, I4 trucks and Starquests
9.0" = 3.0 engines
9.5" = 3.5 and up plus various diesels

If you like your ratio and also have LSD then there is no reason to change other than rear disks. The 9.0 will handle more than your v6 can throw at it. Heck our 3s's have the smaller axle and do fine.

If you want to go 9.5 then hypothetically there is this option:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rmg-6903671/overview/
I will need to prove that the Ford 9" (small bearing) will work though. If it does work in conjunction with the 3.54 3s diff in my front then I will install it in the rear.

It's not so much that I want to change the rear axle. I'd be perfectly happy changing the caliper mounting ears / bearing retainers.

But the Max axles won't work with the Montero rear discs. Since the Montero axle shafts are longer, and they're further sub-divided by open diff / LSD / locker, I may as well just change the whole rear end.

I don't forsee ever needing a locking rear diff. But if I can get one cheap and I'm rebuilding the entire rear end anyway....


If I only cared about what I needed I'd rebuild the current engine and call it a day. I only need the truck for the occasional house or car project

Lol you are as bad as me. I foresee myself getting the sport 9.5 rear eventually. Racetrucks don't have drum brakes.

[quote=""Jeff V.""]Found this in a random Google search.
I'll cross reference it to ASA later.[/quote]
All 3 of mine are 4.636

Did some more digging while I had some downtime. I'll make sense of this yet.

Looks like the 3.5L 99 Sport Limited or XS, in either 2WD or 4WD might be the one to get. A lot of the rear axle parts interchange with the 3.5L full size.

I really need to start using chassis codes for these discussions. It's SO much easier...

So '99 sport leaf sprung axle tube, 96 SR locker pumpkin, axle shafts and brakes. I say the shafts need to be swapped because I think they're specific to the locker.

BTW, one of those Sports near me is a 2002 3.5L RWD with the mythical Hybrid LSD.

Here's a question you can possibly answer.

Gen 2 Montero and Sport both use high pinion front diffs.

The Gen 1 and the truck are low pinion.

Can the Montero front diff be bolted into the truck? That'll answer a whole lot of questions about gearing.

Yes, the leaf rear is the one to get. All of the others are the coil setup with loads of bracing welded on.

Ive found nothing saying the locker diff is specific to any axle shaft. Where did you get that?

That LSD wouldnt be a bad one to get if you are planning on swapping.

Jeff what are you trying to do here? Are you trying to swap in a factory air locker or just swap from drum to disk brakes? Or just all the above?

Coop