Lets talk timing

vr4 · Post by **vr4** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 3:32 am

[quote=""stealthee""]IMO the belt isn't what I would worry about on the service interval. It everything the belt turns on. The water pump, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, etc are usually the failure point anyway, not the belt.[/quote]

Oh I've seen many a belt fail with everything else still smooth and free.

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 3:56 am

I would like to know about the construction of the belts as well. I would say the interval has a lot to do with weather, oil, temps, and time. Sure factory will make it that long if it's not in Arizona and getting oil slung on and off it daily.

Coop

aaronatstate · Post by **aaronatstate** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 1:11 pm

[quote=""mjannusch""]A little side question since the Gates timing belts were brought up in this thread...

On the 6G75, the OEM belts supposedly now are Kevlar belts with a 105,000 mile service interval. Are the Gates belts that come in the timing set kits (water pump, pulleys, etc.) also kevlar or are they whatever the "standard" stuff is? Are the blue racing belts the only ones that are kevlar? Does it matter?[/quote]

Just as an FYI when someone says the belts are Kevlar, that means they have aramid fibers in the rubber to strengthen the tooth. It is very important that you buy the kit for the proper year. If your vehicle came with a 105,000 mile interval belt, the timing kit will come with a belt that will be equivalent to the OE belt.

Gates actually has new part numbers for the newer, better belts. For example on the 2.4L, a 2009 Galant calls for T340 where as an 03 Galant calls for T232. So as long as you buy the timing kit by year and model, it will have a belt that is designed to last for the change interval.

The blue racing belts are reinforced with fiber to make them stronger.

aaronatstate · Post by **aaronatstate** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 1:13 pm

[quote=""DCIV""]I would like to know about the construction of the belts as well. I would say the interval has a lot to do with weather, oil, temps, and time. Sure factory will make it that long if it's not in Arizona and getting oil slung on and off it daily.

Coop[/quote]

Timing belts are made from HNBR material, and are very oil resistant. There are actually belts made now that are designed to run in oil.

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 1:49 pm

[quote=""aaronatstate""]Timing belts are made from HNBR material, and are very oil resistant. There are actually belts made now that are designed to run in oil.[/quote]

good to know! are gates kevlar belts now?

Coop

aaronatstate · Post by **aaronatstate** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 3:24 pm

[quote=""DCIV""]good to know! are gates kevlar belts now?

Coop[/quote]

I can't comment since the newer Mitsu belts are made in Japan. They use a different technology to make the belts (can't get into it), that makes them stronger and last longer.

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Fri Dec 23, 2016 2:37 am

Prob going to go Saturdat and do an actual compression test...reread this thread and forgot about having to put the engine on the lift to do the timing.

I need my car, I've been pretty down.

Coop

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Tue Aug 08, 2017 6:23 pm

ugh....am I doing it right?

Coop

Jeff V. · Post by **Jeff V.** » Tue Aug 08, 2017 6:28 pm

Coop wrote:ugh....am I doing it right?

Only if it's not coming back.

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Tue Aug 08, 2017 6:30 pm

[quote=""Jeff V.""]Only if it's not coming back.[/quote]

As I looked where I had worked on it for the past 5 years I really did question seriously what I was doing. I love the car, its a blast but if this garage does not allow me to fix issues fairly quickly and keep the car running a fair amount of time then I really will move on. There was a long time that the car would start up and drive whenever I wanted it to. I need it to get back there. It was very hard to work on it where it was....a heated and cooled garage and being able to quit anytime and come upstairs seems very nice to me.

Coop

Jeff V. · Post by **Jeff V.** » Tue Aug 08, 2017 6:35 pm

I thought the same thing when we bought our house.

Then the garage got full.

Then I started questioning my priorities in life.

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Tue Aug 08, 2017 6:41 pm

yep...I have one big priority coming my way so we will see. If I can get it to where I can start it up and drive it semi regular then I will keep it. I think this last break down was my fault for the faulty water pump, shouldn't have bought aftermarket on something that can tear up so much stuff.

The other vr4 needs to be sold asap after this one becomes running.

Coop

aaronatstate · Post by **aaronatstate** » Tue Aug 08, 2017 7:19 pm

[quote=""DCIV""]yep...I have one big priority coming my way so we will see. If I can get it to where I can start it up and drive it semi regular then I will keep it. I think this last break down was my fault for the faulty water pump, shouldn't have bought aftermarket on something that can tear up so much stuff.

The other vr4 needs to be sold asap after this one becomes running.

Coop[/quote]

Trust me you will be hard pressed to get it done before that other priority comes...ask me know I know...

5.5 weeks till my other priority comes and mine doesn't have an engine...

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Tue Aug 08, 2017 8:34 pm

I am going to double check my work tomorrow....I still can't get it out of my head that it was running and I shut it off....nothing should have hit. So I am going to take my time and also pull some plugs and just try and enjoy working on the car again, instead of always rushing to get anything done on it.

Coop

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Tue Aug 08, 2017 11:27 pm

Anyone who has jumped time....even a little. Do the spark plugs always get crushed? Just pulled the plenum and checked all the plugs, all looked fine. Can you bend valves, enough it will not run, and not crush a plug?

Coop

Jeff V. · Post by **Jeff V.** » Wed Aug 09, 2017 1:33 am

If the valves vent enough to touch the spark plug, the car would make a horrible noise, if it ran at all.

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Wed Aug 09, 2017 1:38 am

I wouldn't think if the plugs got smashed it would run at all. But I also only have seen two jumped timed cars and both their spark plugs were crushed. So I just figured if mine were then it did jump time...but they arnt.

Grayson said they didn't have to be though for it to have bent valves bad enough not to run. Tomorrow I will be compression testing it.

No plugs, fuel pump fuse pulled, cold engine, what numbers am I looking for? 100-120?

Coop

Jeff V. · Post by **Jeff V.** » Wed Aug 09, 2017 1:34 pm

Whether the timing is jumped or the belt is completely gone, does not matter. The piston doesn't get any closer to the top of the chamber. The only way it's going to touch the plugs is if there's some other piece of debris in there, like a valve head that got broken completely off.

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Wed Aug 09, 2017 1:37 pm

Well poop. Bought a tester, numbers soon.

Coop

aaronatstate · Post by **aaronatstate** » Wed Aug 09, 2017 2:03 pm

[quote=""Jeff V.""]Whether the timing is jumped or the belt is completely gone, does not matter. The piston doesn't get any closer to the top of the chamber. The only way it's going to touch the plugs is if there's some other piece of debris in there, like a valve head that got broken completely off.[/quote]

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