Lets talk subframe

[aaronatstate]

[quote=""DCIV""]There is a Facebook group that is doing a rear tubular subframe. It was under 1500. Very tempting. But it didn’t keep aws. It’s not worth the 20-50lbs I may save to worry about long term stability.


Coop[/quote]

Which facebook group?

[DCIV]

[quote=""aaronatstate""]Which facebook group? [/quote]

He posted it in the 3sgto but then made his own to keep everyone updated, you will need to search for it, I couldn’t find it just off a quick look.


Coop

[aaronatstate]

[quote=""DCIV""]you will need to search for it, I couldn’t find it just off a quick look.


Coop[/quote]

Why can't you search for it, and give me the link like I do for you :ick:

I found it already though.

[DCIV]

I tried to search, I hate Facebook search. If it would have been 3si I would have been all over it.


Coop

[DCIV]

Been having to do stuff but made a little progress. Went by HF and got their ball joint tool, the smallest one they have is actually just a hair too small and the forks get stuck but it worked.


Now a couple questions on bolts.
The one bolt on top all by itself...what does it hold?


Next, the bolt on top..what does it hold?


I am sure I will find out while taking things apart but if they undo something thats helpful I would like to jump forward on that.


Coop

[DCIV]

Ball joint replacement upper and lower
Moog K9372

Coop

[aaronatstate]

Pretty sure the bolt on the arm is what holds the bushing in place, and it deflects around that bolt for the AWS. The other bolt I'd guess is to hold the rear hubs in place.

[DCIV]

I wish the hubs were in better condition. I am gonna end up putting new bearings in but these ones are so rusted I don’t want to use those and that will eat up some time when swapping things out.

I may look for an acceptable ones to rebuild.


Coop

[DCIV]

A few more updates. I did get ahold of the sandblaster that did the fronts, he just moved locations, he was cheap, fast, and did a good job. I will prob just take everything to him. Easy.

Got the sway bars off but not really how I wanted lol. Sway bar end links are junk!


Also the lower control arm bolts will not come out...very odd, the nuts needed PB blaster but after they were off the bolts will not come out. Basically for those bolts and the lower control arm ball joins I need a 22mm open end wrench and I only have 19mm.

So until I get that, and get the 30mm socket I ordered I am kind of at a stand still.


Edit: I also need a half in drive swivel as my impact will not reach to the aws bushing side bolt. Tried with a socket....nope. lol


Coop

[stealthee]

Lower control arm bolts are probably seized in the bushing. Probably need to cut them out.

[DCIV]

[quote=""stealthee""]Lower control arm bolts are probably seized in the bushing. Probably need to cut them out.[/quote]

Could be. I hope not though.


Coop

[DCIV]

Went by rural king and got 60 bucks in 2 wrenches and a swivel 1/2 drive but it was worth it.

The main one stands alone!

Also I got one side lower control arm off....what a pain that bolt was.


Still need to take off some brackets and label them, deal with the anti lock breaks sensor, one bolt that broke off in a bracket I will use, and then start pressing this stuff out. I have a press but this stuff is heavy, its not like I can just hold it there while I press, gonna have to rig up something. Maybe my engine lift.

I also got that big nut that holds the hub in taken off...but I have to take the parking brake drum part off to get to some bolts. That thing is very complex. I am not afraid to say, i have no idea how to work on drums lol.

Coop

[Jeff V.]

If you want part numbers for any of this stuff, just post the reference code from the diagram and I'll look them up.


Subframe, arms and bushings


Hub and bearings


Brake rotor and misc


Parking brake hardware


Rear diff


Rear rack


Rear pump and prop valve


Hydraulic lines

[DCIV]

Woke up out of dead sleep last night and couldn’t go back to sleep with one thing on my mind. “What if the subframe is too big for my oven”. I looked it up a long time ago wanting to know dimensions but never found anything concrete. Well today I went down and measured. I have 31 inches in my powder coating oven from side to side. Seems the subframe (which it’s hard to measure as the widest points are not strait across) is about 28. So it will just barely fit. I was gonna be upset if all of this and I had to find someone else to powder coat if.


Coop

[DCIV]

Now that I think of it...I need to measure the lines as the long ones for the car I bet will not fit.


Coop

[Monochrome]

Just a heads up. The edges will be sitting in the cold part of the oven. Those area may never get up to temp.

[DCIV]

My oven has soooo much air flow through it for even temp it’s not even funny. It started life to incubate eggs. I will deff keep an eye on it with the temp gun though. Thank you for the heads up.


Coop

[ChargerX3]

[quote=""DCIV""]My oven has soooo much air flow through it for even temp it’s not even funny. It started life to incubate eggs. I will deff keep an eye on it with the temp gun though. Thank you for the heads up.


Coop[/quote]

Whoa.

[DCIV]

Progress was made. Bushing and ball joints all pressed out. Still need to do the trailing arms? And main subframe. But progress was made. I would like to get all the parts in so that way I know to take out the sleeves or not. I will prob do some more tomorrow. Would love to get this stuff dropped off to the sandblaster when I go to Hawaii.


Coop

[DCIV]

Priced everything through Ninja, think it will be right around 1k. Gonna try and add all this stuff up and see what it cost through a dealer as well.

Anyone every change the rear hub bearing? There are shields and stuff, do those get destroyed given the bearing has to be pulled off and pressed on?


Coop