Lets talk timing

tabasco122 · Post by **tabasco122** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:18 pm

I mean electronics wise they would be the same as any other e9x. Need special tools to do certain things, but its really not THAT bad imo. I dont regret anything, though I will be cancelling my warranty.

jackhammer · Post by **jackhammer** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 9:17 pm

[quote=""DCIV""]No scope can show me? No crushed spark plug? No way of knowing now huh?

This sucks.

Coop[/quote]Crank it by hand as it sits. If everything moves and the timing marks line up, you should be good. That should also allow you to put the grenade pin back in before you release the tension and remove the belt

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 11:53 pm

I posted the timing lined up the best it could.

Coop

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Sun Aug 30, 2015 11:14 pm

Going to reset timing tomorrow using this torn up belt as my belt hasn't come in yet. Then going to pull the fuel fuse and see if I can get compression test.

Should I pull the rear spark plugs? 160-180 and less than some small percentage is what it should be correct? Any suggestions?

Coop

aaronatstate · Post by **aaronatstate** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 12:56 pm

[quote=""DCIV""]Going to reset timing tomorrow using this torn up belt as my belt hasn't come in yet. Then going to pull the fuel fuse and see if I can get compression test.

Should I pull the rear spark plugs? 160-180 and less than some small percentage is what it should be correct? Any suggestions?

Coop[/quote]

I would pull the rear spark plugs. You want to put as little force on that belt as possible, other wise it could break. Also I thought the compression test was supposed to be done warm no?

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 1:00 pm

[quote=""aaronatstate""]I would pull the rear spark plugs. You want to put as little force on that belt as possible, other wise it could break. Also I thought the compression test was supposed to be done warm no?[/quote]

You can do it warm or cold, the numbers will be different though. Right now I am just looking to make sure I have compression so I know if I am pulling the head before going any farther. At least thats my thoughts.

Coop

aaronatstate · Post by **aaronatstate** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 2:49 pm

[quote=""DCIV""]You can do it warm or cold, the numbers will be different though. Right now I am just looking to make sure I have compression so I know if I am pulling the head before going any farther. At least thats my thoughts.

Coop[/quote]

Actually I would pull all the spark plugs for the entire test. You want as little force on that belt as possible. In that condition, it could break anytime. If it were my car, I would wait until I got the new belt, and install it, and then do the compression test.

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 3:00 pm

Reset time and turned it over. Motor felt like it has compression but I know that's not how it works.

I am pretty sure this is partly the tensioner arm and the water pump. As when I put it on I put it on centered (prob more toward the engine) and in a full rotation it was starting to come off in both places. I didn't feel okay trying to get compression numbers. I will wait for my stuff.

I did buy some clay and make my own timing cogs where they should be. That will at least help later.

Coop

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 3:01 pm

Aaron. Where do I buy a gates belt for the cheapest?

Coop

aaronatstate · Post by **aaronatstate** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 3:55 pm

[quote=""DCIV""]Aaron. Where do I buy a gates belt for the cheapest?

Coop[/quote]

Rockauto. Or if you want to get it at a store, Oreilly's or Napa, which ever is cheapest. They are both Gates Belts.

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 7:14 pm

Here we have all 3 timing pulleys.
Chris Hills, OEM tensioner, and OEM rear timing pulley.

Here we have an OEM rear timing pulley on top of the OEM tensioner pulley. OEM tensioner and Chris Hill's are exactly the same size.

Notice, not only a lip on the pulley but also its very close in size. I am tempted not to even use the part I am having made and just buy another one of these to use instead of what Chis Hill uses with his solid timing tensioner.

Just found this interesting and figured I would share.

Coop

Hans_GZP · Post by **Hans_GZP** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 7:15 pm

Except that won't work.

Hans_GZP · Post by **Hans_GZP** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 7:16 pm

We have had timing belts actually cut slightly crooked. It was really hard to see, but you could see the belt wobble when the engine was running. Replaced only the belt and the problem was solved.

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 7:19 pm

[quote=""Hans_GZP""]Except that won't work.[/quote]

It would with a solid tensioner.

Coop

Hans_GZP · Post by **Hans_GZP** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 7:25 pm

If you say so. But you should look at the back side of the pulley where it bolts on to the bracket first before making that decision.

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 7:28 pm

[quote=""Hans_GZP""]If you say so. But you should look at the back side of the pulley where it bolts on to the bracket first before making that decision.[/quote]

you are right, it sits out to far where the others would sit in some.

Coop

Hans_GZP · Post by **Hans_GZP** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 7:34 pm

you're welcome

DCIV · Post by **DCIV** » Thu Sep 24, 2015 4:00 pm

Finally got around to tearing it all apart. I can not turn the water pump by hand. Do not know if it's because of all the rubber or its failed but it will not turn.

Coop

Silver · Post by **Silver** » Thu Sep 24, 2015 4:03 pm

That sucks

ChargerX3 · Post by **ChargerX3** » Thu Sep 24, 2015 4:29 pm

[quote=""ChargerX3""]Im almost certain its the water pump. Ive seen and had the pump give out and first thing it does is make the belt walk and sometimes skip time. Seen it on quite a few 3s's. Check and see how true your pump is.[/quote]

Not to say i told you so, but... yea. Get a new OEM water pump and your issues will go away.

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