I sort of hate to ask

[Brandonscar]

Please no e-penis swinging. I am asking this on BAWC because I just want some straight answers, if you have a differing opinion of another poster, just factualy state why for me.

I am looking to replace the speakers in my car. I went and searched for 6.5 componient speakers and turned up a crap ton of results, same with 6X9's. This has some questions running through my head now.

1) Does it matter if the front and rear speaker brands match?
2) Is there really a "best" brand?
3) I suck at fixing my car so I will have these installed for me, should I just go ahead with an Amp for these at the same time I figure this might save me some labor doing it all at once.
4) I also saw upgraded speaker wire, should I bother with that?

I recently had a new head unit installed. I don't remember what the specs are on it. I was told it was one of the best at the time. I do know it has multiple RCA jacks on it, the guy said this was important for future multiple Amp's if I wanted.

Does that mean I should have one amp for the front and one amp for the rear? Again the same above question apply, best brand ect. In adition should I be concerned with the Amp power too much, with me just driving the stock speaker sizes?

I am getting to be an old ass man, and have no desire to have 12' subs or anything like that. I do desire the best possiable sound from the stock speaker mounting locations.

Cost isn't a huge concern, like all the other parts I have replaced on my car so far, I want the best part available, and don't want to have to mess with it again for awhile.

Thanks you all!

Oh I don't know if this matters but I listen to every type of music, even talk radio from time to time.

[Monster Stealth]

1) doesn't really matter, but they technically should sound better if they are from the same brand, and series. I would look into Infinity, Alpine, or Diamond Audio, depending on budget.

2) its all opinion, best thing to do is take in a cd of what you would be listening too, and test it out.

3) Aftermarket amps will make aftermarket speakers sound 100x better IMO. Headunits just cant pump enough power
out to really enjoy the benefits of aftermarket speakers. For simplicity sakes, I prefer a single amp than can run 4 channels.
4) upraded wire is not really a necessity per say, but can help improve over all sound quality. Depends on how much the shop wanted to charge to rewire everything for me to consider it even being worth it.

[GTO Assassin]

If you are NOT running subs, you really shouldn't be going amp crazy B. Some good bassy rear speakers, and some better fronts is what you need. I don't believe you need to stick to same brands, however, I'm a neatness freak, and like some uniform. Having said that, I'm currently running an eclipse head unit (CD5441) with the in dash changer. I'm running some Pioneer front splitters with factory rears. I spent all my funds on performance, so I just needed a descent setup to get me by. Fronts can run off the head unit, and get yourself some good 6 x 9's for the rear and get a small amp with a little more than enough power to run them.

Scotty

[EvilNCarnate]

[quote=""Brandonscar""]Please no e-penis swinging. I am asking this on BAWC because I just want some straight answers, if you have a differing opinion of another poster, just factualy state why for me.

I am looking to replace the speakers in my car. I went and searched for 6.5 componient speakers and turned up a crap ton of results, same with 6X9's. This has some questions running through my head now.

1) Does it matter if the front and rear speaker brands match?
2) Is there really a "best" brand?
3) I suck at fixing my car so I will have these installed for me, should I just go ahead with an Amp for these at the same time I figure this might save me some labor doing it all at once.
4) I also saw upgraded speaker wire, should I bother with that?

I recently had a new head unit installed. I don't remember what the specs are on it. I was told it was one of the best at the time. I do know it has multiple RCA jacks on it, the guy said this was important for future multiple Amp's if I wanted.

Does that mean I should have one amp for the front and one amp for the rear? Again the same above question apply, best brand ect. In adition should I be concerned with the Amp power too much, with me just driving the stock speaker sizes?

I am getting to be an old ass man, and have no desire to have 12' subs or anything like that. I do desire the best possiable sound from the stock speaker mounting locations.

Cost isn't a huge concern, like all the other parts I have replaced on my car so far, I want the best part available, and don't want to have to mess with it again for awhile.

Thanks you all!

Oh I don't know if this matters but I listen to every type of music, even talk radio from time to time.[/quote]

1.) No. I have run mismatched brands and mismatched models. I had a car with 6.5" all around and there was no need for a 3 way speaker in the rear so a different model was better. I have also run different brands because one speaker sounded better to me than another. However in the VR-4 I replaced them all with Infinity speakers. WHAT REALLY MATTER IS THAT THEY ALL RUN AT THE SAME OHMS.

My Car not including the sub which is on a separate amp.
Front
Infinity Reference 5012i (4ohms)

Rear
Infinity Reference 9613i (4ohms)

Amplifier
Kenwood Kac8402 60x4 (4ohms)


2.) Everyone will throw names at you but it comes down to what you like in the end. Some audiophile can come in here and throw names all day at you but if you cant tell the difference in sound between some Sony's and Infinity then why pay more?

3.) You have two options here. Go ahead and install the amp at the same time or just have the installer run the lines for the amp so it can be connected later. The big item being speaker wire replacement which brings us to 4.

4.) If you install an amp you will need to feed lines from the amp to the speakers, with the rears this is cake as the amp will be close by to run lines too. The fronts are a pain in the ass as you have to feed through the weather boots to the speakers in the doors. Now you can have the installers run new lines to the locations and then you would just need to swtich the feeds from the head unit to the amplifier when its time. With everything all sitting, prewired, properly labeled the amp install would take maybe 15 minutes to set up.

5.) Amplifier tuning. I am not a professional audio installer, but I am a recreational audiophile. I have almost NEVER seen an amp properly tuned after installation. Most installers have no idea what the fuck they are doing and if they do tune it they tune it to their ear and not yours. The driver should be there for all amp tuning. Amps have tuning for the actual amplification of lows, mids, highs.... You know when you hear that car with the trunk rattling like crazy and you cant hear the mids or highs (all bass no vocals)? Well that shit isnt fucking tuned. Personally I tune my cars like this. I turn the music up a bit then start tuning the levels so that I can hear everything clearly in the music I listen too. Then I turn the Head Unit up to half and adjust to remove distortion. Then I turn it up more and tune until I can turn the stereo to max and not distort. Finally I go back through and recheck levels, change songs around and recheck/adjust.... Until finally its right. My stereo sounds great at all levels, can be turned to the max setting, wont distort and the body panels dont rattle. Only down side to all this is I get in trouble with the Mrs. Since its tuned properly you can actually hear every word of the music outside the car, windows up, doors closed... and I listen to rap and rock, she thinks the neighbors don't need to hear it.

[Wolf_Zero]

Basically everything he said, however do know that a car is one of the worst sound stages to work with.

For the rewiring bit, that really depends on how good your ears are. I personally can hear the difference with better wiring, but if you can't than there's no point in it honestly.

Also, despite your Old Man Syndrome (OMS), I would highly recommend getting just a small subwoofer. It doesn't have to be anything crazy, just something that gives a good sound. It will most definitely improve your listening experience.

Finally, I would stick with circular and not oval speakers. Even though they're generally a little smaller they do sound better.

[Brandonscar]

Thank you all for the great input.

How do these look to you all?

front:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/ ... 7CS&tp=106

rear:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/ ... i=1086937I

Amp:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/ ... 75A&tp=115

I relize the 6x9 is a 3-way and someone mentioned that is a waste, however the 2-way vs. 3 way was only a few dollars. Unless it is retarded I didn't really see a big deal with a few dollars one way or another. Now if it is retarded beyond the few dollars spent let me know.

[copperhead069]

that looks like a good set up, and that amp matches perfectly w/ those speakers. As said earlier as small sub like a 10" in a sealed enclosure will add the extra bass without rattling everything and make the system complete.

[EvilNCarnate]

[quote=""Brandonscar""]Thank you all for the great input.

How do these look to you all?

front:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/ ... 7CS&tp=106

rear:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/ ... i=1086937I

Amp:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/ ... 75A&tp=115

I relize the 6x9 is a 3-way and someone mentioned that is a waste, however the 2-way vs. 3 way was only a few dollars. Unless it is retarded I didn't really see a big deal with a few dollars one way or another. Now if it is retarded beyond the few dollars spent let me know.[/quote]

Those will work. A few notes. With the 3000GT the rears are a good spot for a 3 way because your leg can easily block the front speakers. I have 3 ways in the back and 2 ways up front for this reason and as dual function they balance the bass of the sub much better. If you dont add a sub then you really will be dealing with a ton of treble. In addition remember that the tweeters that come with the components should be installed in the dash in the OEM location and they wont match up perfectly as well installation would require the removal of the dash. I personally would skip the component set and just get the speaker set.

[Brandonscar]

ok I will stop being an old man and look for a 10 inch.

If I just get the speakers installed and not the dash tweeters, can I just have them cut the wire to the tweeters in the dash? I don't want them to rattle latter on if they blow or whatever.

[copperhead069]

Tweeter installation isn't that bad actually. I didn't use the dash location, i mounted mine on the carpet beside the stereo aiming up towards the passengers. Others mount theirs in the doors which i wanted to do but didn't have time/tools to do so. If you get the components installed w/o the tweeters it will sound weird w/ no highs and all mids in the front. Also i would be hesitant taking it to a shop unless u know the people personally as they will overcharge and if its like circuit city or best buy they'll more than likely mess it all up. Best bet is to find a friend or someone off here that'll help you out for beer/dinner.

[EvilNCarnate]

[quote=""Brandonscar""]ok I will stop being an old man and look for a 10 inch.

If I just get the speakers installed and not the dash tweeters, can I just have them cut the wire to the tweeters in the dash? I don't want them to rattle latter on if they blow or whatever.[/quote]

I would just ignore them completely in my car they were the only thing not blown. First time I turned the stereo up in the car all 4 speakers sounded like shit. The paper cones just fucking cracked to pieces from age and lack of use. The tweeters popped but they never made another sound.

[Brandonscar]

Awesome, I will get a 2 way front 6.5 and ignore the tweeters then. They make a kappa series that is a a 6.5 2 way so that works out just fine for me.

thanks again to all of you for your help.